
Floor Guide
There are a number of options that can influence the overall look, life expectancy, durability and cost. The information
below may be a useful guide.
Please consider the actual use that you expect the floor to withstand – if you do have a dog that goes bonkers every
time somebody comes to the front door and scratches the boards this needs to be considered!
Bathrooms – simple - don’t do it! The number of times I have seen this done and the client having problems
with the floor failing is not funny – yes, I know it looks great, but it simply does not work!
Kitchens, halls, bedrooms, reception rooms, etc. – no problem!
Preparation: – For this I’ll get my anorak out!!
Fail to prepare and prepare to fail!! Corny I know, but so true!
The sub-floor (the floor you are going to lay the wood onto) needs to be dry. If in doubt check with the manufacturer or us for this.
It needs to be level – as a rule of thumb the floor should not have any high or low points of over 3mm in a
one metre length. Wet trades (painting and plastering, grouting – basically anything that needs to dry) should
be just that – dry! Any central heating running should be working and tested, the room needs to be clear and
the wood should be allowed to acclimatise prior to being laid. Acclimatisation depends on the type and make of flooring,
so find out! If in doubt check it out.
Continued.....
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